How EGF Appears on an Ingredient List: sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Other Growth-Factor Names
NARINFLA Journal · Ingredient Labels · Published 2026-09-30 · Last reviewed 2026-09-30 · 한국어
Short answer
On an ingredient list, EGF (epidermal growth factor) usually appears as sh-Oligopeptide-1, not as "EGF". Other growth factors use similar "sh-" or "rh-" names, such as sh-Oligopeptide-2 (IGF-1) and sh-Polypeptide-1 (bFGF). They normally sit near the end of the list, and that position alone does not tell you how much is inside.
You flip the box over, read the full ingredient list, and "EGF" is nowhere to be found, even though the front of the pack mentions it. It has not gone missing. Growth factors are listed under their standardized INCI names, and those names look nothing like the acronyms used in marketing.
This guide explains how to spot them, why they appear where they do, and what the current evidence can and cannot tell you.
What is EGF called on an ingredient list?
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is the INCI name for a lab-made protein with the same amino-acid sequence as human EGF. According to the EU CosIng definition, it is produced by inserting a synthetic gene identical to human EGF into E. coli and collecting the protein through fermentation. It is up to 53 amino acids long.
The prefix is the clue. Under INCI naming, ingredients that copy a human growth-factor sequence start with sh- (synthetic human gene) or rh- (recombinant human gene).
| INCI name on the label | Growth factor it mirrors | Known role in the body |
|---|---|---|
| sh-Oligopeptide-1 | EGF (epidermal growth factor) | Growth signal for epidermal cells |
| sh-Oligopeptide-2 | IGF-1 (insulin-like growth factor 1) | General growth signaling |
| sh-Polypeptide-1 | bFGF (basic fibroblast growth factor) | Signaling related to fibroblasts (dermal cells) |
| sh-Polypeptide-11 | aFGF (acidic fibroblast growth factor, FGF-1) | Signaling related to fibroblasts (dermal cells) |
| sh-Polypeptide-9 | VEGF family | Blood-vessel-related growth factor family |
The "role" column describes what these proteins do inside the body. It does not mean a cosmetic applied to the skin does the same thing.
If a product talks about growth factors but none of these names appear on the label, it is fair to ask what the marketing actually refers to.
What is the difference between sh- and rh-?
Both aim for the same human sequence; the difference is how the gene was obtained. "rh-" names use a gene isolated directly from human cells, while "sh-" names use a gene that was synthesized artificially. Industry explanations describe this as a naming distinction rather than a difference you could detect by analysis.
It does matter in one market. Since January 2023, the EU's list of prohibited cosmetic substances (Annex II, entry 416, "cells, tissues or products of human origin") has been applied to rh-Oligopeptide-1 and related rh- names, so they cannot be used in cosmetics sold in the EU. The sh- versions are not covered by that entry.
Why are growth factors always at the end of the list?
Because they are used in tiny amounts, and ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order. Growth factors are typically handled in parts per million (ppm). In Korea, EGF was added to the list of cosmetic ingredients with a set maximum usage level in a 2006 regulatory revision.
So a spot near the end of the list does not prove "almost nothing is in there", and it does not prove quality either. A more useful question is how well that small amount stays intact until it reaches your skin.
How sensitive is EGF to heat and light?
EGF is a small protein, about 6 kDa, folded by three disulfide bonds, and like most proteins it slowly changes shape with heat, light and oxygen. A study of human EGF in water found that the main degradation pathway differed above and below pH 6, and that fluorescent-light exposure increased oxidation. No pH stopped the changes completely.
Those results came from specific research solutions, not finished cosmetics. The practical rule: follow the storage instructions on the label. If there are none, keep the product away from direct sunlight in a cool drawer, not on a sunny bathroom windowsill or in a hot car. Careful storage protects the formula; it has not been shown to increase skin results.
Can I use a growth-factor product with vitamin C?
Yes, and the simplest approach is to use them at different times of day. Some sources say low-pH products such as pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or glycolic acid may reduce growth-factor activity when layered right after each other. Others note that skin surface pH recovers within minutes. The stability studies above looked at weeks or months in a bottle, so there is little direct data on the few minutes on your face.
- Easy option: pure vitamin C or acid exfoliants in the morning, growth-factor ampoule at night.
- Same routine: follow each product's directions and watch how your skin responds.
- Avoid: mixing the two in your palm, touching the dropper tip to skin, and storing the bottle somewhere warm.
Vitamin C derivatives ending in "-ascorbyl" (for example sodium ascorbyl phosphate) are more stable forms and do not need to be treated like low-pH pure vitamin C.
Is a mix of several growth factors better than EGF alone?
There is not enough evidence to say so. A 60-day study of a gel with several growth factors reported improved fine-line scores around the eyes, but it was a small pilot with 14 people and no control group. A 2016 literature review also points out that growth factors are large molecules that have difficulty passing through the tightly packed outer skin layer.
Head-to-head studies comparing EGF alone with a combination under the same conditions are still scarce. We suggest reading a multi-growth-factor formula as a choice not to rely on a single ingredient, rather than as a "stronger" formula.
What does the NARINFLA 3F ampoule list?
As an example of reading a real label: the ingredient list of NARINFLA's Lifting Booster 3F Ampoule (Korea, 50 ml) starts with Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, with water second. Near the end it lists sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11, followed by peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, with acetyl hexapeptide-8 just before them.
How we use it: a small amount after cleansing and before heavier layers, extended to the neck if you like, with pure vitamin C or acid exfoliants moved to the morning or a different day. Full details are on the NARINFLA official site.
Frequently asked questions
Does a growth-factor product need to be refrigerated?
Follow the storage instructions on the product label first. Some formulas are not suited to refrigeration. If there is no instruction, a cool place away from direct sunlight is the default.
If sh-Oligopeptide-1 is at the very end of the list, is there almost none?
Not necessarily. Growth factors are used in ppm amounts, and ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order, so position alone does not reveal the exact amount.
Is sh-Oligopeptide-1 better than rh-Oligopeptide-1?
Both target the same human sequence. The difference is whether the gene was synthesized or isolated from human cells, and the name alone does not show which is better. Only the rh- form is restricted in EU cosmetics.
Sources
- sh-Oligopeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-1 ingredient definitions (EU CosIng), via INCIDecoder.
- Japan EGF Association, Q&A on INCI and label-name changes, 2024 (link).
- Korea MFDS, Regulation on Designation of Cosmetic Ingredients, Notice 2006-12 (link).
- Formulation and in vitro penetration study of rhEGF-loaded transfersomal emulgel. Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2020 (link).
- Aqueous stability of human epidermal growth factor 1-48. Pharmaceutical Research, 1994 (link).
- Reversal of photodamage with topical growth factors: a pilot study. J Cosmet Laser Ther, 2003 (link).
- Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2016 (link).
Written by the NARINFLA Journal editorial team, reviewed by Dajeong Park, cosmetic developer at NARINFLA (Roseroad Inc., Korea).
This article is general cosmetic information and is not intended to diagnose, treat or prevent any disease. Individual results vary.
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